This is what has been pissing me off for about a week now.

I’ve had them done, but Parkerizing is broken for no reason. Again. I have never in my life had so much trouble with Parkerizing as I have the last year or so. Ridiculous.

Anyway, there they are. 4003QA. Not as perfect as I would have liked, but they’ll do. I might change the radius slots. Didn’t turn out as well as I wanted. Most people probably won’t notice, but I do…

Future production 4003FBA will share some of the mods I made in the 4003QA. Slightly shorter, a bit beefier.

8 comments / Add your comment below

  1. Do these come in 14M RH x 1? (Yugo SKS) I know, ALL the rest of ’em are LH. The 59/66 Yugo (grenade launcher) has RH threads. Oh, BTW … pj’s on the firing line? Confidence! Sure beats mowing the grass in combat boots and a thong.

  2. If you got the right chemicals, then it is down to the other factors.
    1. Proper temperatures and measuring equipment reading correct?
    2. Is there contamination from oils and/or residue from cleaners? I have seen residue left from oil stripper like ISO alcohol and acetone.
    3. Is there enough fluid circulation?
    4. Is the voltage source able to keep the current and voltage constant? Might add a shunt and amp meter to make sure. Also different metals will have different voltage, amps and time of charge. Have you tried higher voltage?
    5. Are you getting a short circuit in the fluid?
    6. Have you checked the wires/leads to see if they are being Parkerizied. Try opening up the wire and inspecting it for a changed that might have occurred. If so you might try using Oxygen free copper wire because it has a good seal on the insulation.
    7. Are you sure you have the right anode material? Are you positive (haha no pun intended)it is not an alloy or other mixed metals.
    8. Try a different source of distilled water.

    Just some random thoughts. :)

    1. I managed to get about 20 parts done with a full GALLON of parkerizing fluid before it turned back into rust accelerant again and just ruins the parts. Ridiculous.

      They come straight out of the sandblaster and into the fluid. Sometimes I rinse them and then into the fluid, but I do this very fast to prevent any rusting.

      It’s essentially doing what I would expect of fluid that had the Managanese shocked out of it via temp drop. I suspect I’m being sold a bottle of phosphoric acid with barely any Manganese in it.

      There simply is nothing wrong with my process. I’ve seen much sloppier rigs turn out flawless parkerizing finishes. It has to be the source.

      I tried electric heat and propane on a grill. Scrub everything, rinse with clean water. There is nothing I can do to make it any cleaner, you can have surgery in my park tank. The parts have been heavilly blasted with aluminum oxide media at over 100PSI. It doesn’t matter. It has to be the fluid, but the supplier insists I’m an idiot. I considered this possibility, but I’ve run out of any way to blame myself. It’s not me. This shit just doesn’t work.

      I’ve done everything but try a different supplier, so that’s what I’m doing.

      1. Try a different blast media. Maybe there is a reaction from steel and aluminum. I just guessing here and letting my mind talk out loud. What happens if you do not blast at all? Then clean and treat with a fresh batch.

        1. Ok… I have done some reading of troubleshooting and noticed only one person switching from Aluminum Oxide to hardware store sand helping. I did notice a lot of people saying to make sure that you only use distilled water. They said even for cleaning ans rinsing of parts. I have heard people saying (typing) that you should season the mix by first putting in some steel wool for 15-20 minutes. I have also heard them say that harder steels and higher nickel steels need stronger acid or high temperatures. Thoughts for your troubleshooting.

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